Rosh Hashanah special: When herring turned hip – Tel Aviv Table
“You have to eat fish on Rosh Hashanah if you don’t want to go to hell,”
explains the indomitable Sherry Ansky, food columnist and mother of celebrity
chef Michal Ansky. Only Sherry Ansky would guzzle a serving of pungent pickled
herring on a first date. And only Sherry Ansky would risk first impressions by
devouring her date’s helping as well as her own. Such is food writer Ansky’s
addiction to this diminutive jarred fish.
Today, Israelis swarm to the Sherry
Herring sandwich stand at Tel Aviv’s Port Market to enjoy a sweet and sour
pickled herring, creamed herring, or herring confit sandwich. Sherry first fell
in love with pickled herring aged six, at a time when Ashkenazi cuisine was
generally derided for being bland and watery (think gefilte fish and chicken
consommé). “There was a saying,” she remembers, “that if you’re invited to
dinner at an Ashkenazi’s house, take a bathing suit.”
Sherry is delighted to be part of a worldwide revival of Eastern European
Jewish cuisine.
Photo: Sherry Ansky at her herring sandwich stand at Tel Aviv’s Port Market.
Credit: Daniella Cheslow.
LISTEN TO THE PODCAST: http://tlv1.fm/full-show/2014/09/22/rosh-hashanah-special-when-herring-turned-hip-tel-aviv-table/?utm_source=wysija&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Newsletter
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